Tswalu Kalahari
The Kalahari is one of the world’s most iconic deserts - known for it’s red sands and abundant wildlife, it’s truly one of the most beautiful places i’ve ever been.
I had my eye on Tswalu back when I first visited South Africa in 2018. It’s on National Geographic’s curated list of Unique Lodges of the World, and sits on a private reserve of over 114,000 hectares within the infamous Kalahari savannah — making it South Africa’s largest private game reserve.
The landscape at Tswalu is unlike anything i’ve ever seen! Vast expanses of endless red sands contrast with the most beautiful emerald green flora that covers the savannah - and it’s all set again the Korannaberg Mountains which sets it apart from the rest of the Kalahari region.
Tswalu Motse Lodge
You have two options for lodging at Tswalu - the Motse Lodge or the Tarkuni Lodge. We deferred to the Tswalu team on what was best for our group, and since the Motse has been newly renovated we went with it. Needless to say, we were ecstatic with our choice! The rooms are absolutely stunning, insanely spacious, and feature picturesque views of the reserve. It’s impossible to miss wildlife walking by your room as they head for the nearby watering hole. The most comfortable king size bed is the focus of the bedroom, which is surrounded by dreamy gauze curtains you close at night. The bathrooms boast a rustic but luxurious vibe, complete with a bathtub as well as an indoor AND outdoor shower. Each room also has it’s own large, private outdoor space right in the Kalahari reserve.
In the common area of the Motse conveniently sits a watering hole in perfect view from the pool and dining area. We spent several afternoons lazily relaxing poolside, with animals coming and going throughout the day just in front of us. The infinity pool is the perfect place to spend the hours in-between game drives and soak up some of the South African sun.
The food at Tswalu is also exquisite, with an open menu available throughout the day full of breakfast, lunch, dinner, and snack options. The dining is curated with the help of Michelin-starred South African chef Jan Hendrik van der Westhuizen, and each dish is inspired by and captures the essence of the Kalahari. The portions and presentation were perfection, and the service staff is beyond incredible. Every single person has a smile on their face every day, with each of them going above and beyond to ensure your every wish is fulfilled. While most breakfasts are served on the veranda, and most lunches we enjoyed poolside, dinner was transformed into an entire experience - each night was something special including a private table set near the water hole, or our favorite: the “Bush Dinner” under the stars! Which was literally, tables set up for everyone far from camp in the middle of the bush with stunning views of the night sky.
SAFARI
One of the biggest draws of Tswalu’s safari experience is that each booking receives they own private vehicle for game drives. I might be biased, but we were lucky enough to have the most incredible guide + tracker team with us during our stay: Mauritz (aka Mo) and Jonnas! HIGHLY recommend requesting them for your stay if they are available. Not only did they both treat us like family from the moment we arrived, but their skills and knowledge of the Kalahari region are exceptional. There are around 88 mammals and 240 bird species in the Tswalu reserve, including lion, leopard, cheetah, giraffe, rhino, zebra, many different antelope, buffalo, wild dogs, and meerkats just to name of a few of our favorites! With Jonnas’ excellent tracking skills we were able to get up and close and personal with many of these animals, while Mo piloted us safely in and out of each sighting while sharing his extensive arsenal of facts about each one with us.
I think my whole group would agree that one of the most special activities we did was spending time with Tswalu’s habituated meerkat colony! They are the coolest little creatures, and it was fascinating to sit with them, walk with them, and watch how their daily lives operate!
We also spent the better part of an entire morning tracking a pride of lions - which resulted in a huge payoff as we found them snoozing by a watering hole many miles from the main camp. We sat them for quite some time, observing the cubs as they dozed and enjoying the peacefulness of the bush!
horseback safari
I’ve gotta say, i’ve been lucky enough to get to ride in many beautiful places around the world, but a horseback safari takes the cake for being the absolute coolest. I went on three different rides during my stay at Tswalu - the first was with my entire group, which included mostly beginners so don’t be afraid to try this if you don’t have a ton of experience on horseback! Rusty, the guide that will lead your horse safari, will take great care to make sure you safely and comfortable have the experience of a lifetime! He pairs you with the right horse for your riding level, and then you set off into the horizon to take in the breathtaking Kalahari sunset. My next two rides, I opted to leave my beginning group of friends behind and set off with Rusty on exhilarating rides where we galloped over the red sands, splashed through watering holes, and encountered many different animals along the way! On one of our rides we came around the corner to find a giraffe munching on a tree, and I was able to walk my horse right up next to him! It was the most magical thing in the world. When you are on horseback, the animals just see you as another four legged creature and therefore aren’t threatened by your presence the same way they would if you were on two feet, or even in a vehicle. It’s an incredible way to experience these magnificent animals, so don’t pass up this amazing opportunity!!
stargazing
Easily the most awe inspiring views of the night sky i’ve ever seen have been in Africa. I’ve always been fascinated by the stars, but I truly fell in love with the night sky after seeing it like this. Even in the more remote parts of the U.S. i’ve travelled i’ve never seen SO MANY STARS, and i’ve never seen the Milky Way SO CLEARLY! It quite literally takes your breath away, and at Tswalu there are endless opportunities to take advantage of stargazing. Often game drives will linger into the night if you’re up for it (highly recommend!) which brings out many different nocturnal wildlife along with the stars, and if you’re lucky the Tswalu team will plan a bush dinner for the entire camp - quite literally a braai style buffet set up deep in the bush away from the lodge (see the 3rd picture below!)
SUSTAINABILITY & CONSERVATION
In Setswana, Tswalu means a ‘new beginning’ and they are aiming to deliver exactly that: a fresh era of hope for the people and wildlife of one of South Africa’s last great wilderness areas. Tswalu is a conservation-in-progress - damage caused by previous, farming endeavors is being repaired, with fences and structures being removed, and natural processes being restored. The entire focus of the Tswalu lodge is on sustainable tourism supporting the conservation efforts of the Tswalu Foundation. Research is a vital part of their conservation efforts, and has resulted in the successful reintroduction of indigenous animal species that are now thriving.
At Tswalu, a holistic approach has been adopted to correct past mistakes, laying the groundwork for long-term ecological and economic viability, and creating a model of conservation supported by ecotourism that can be sustained indefinitely. The Tswalu ecotourism model recognizes that the people of the greater Kalahari are an integral part of the ecosystem, and crucial to solving the conservation challenges we all face. Running a viable ecotourism business allows for training and employment opportunities for people from the closest settlements, and provide them with meaningful careers as well as enhanced health and education services.
You will notice small things during your stay at Tswalu that make a big difference. For example, there is zero plastic used at the lodge or on the reserve. When you arrive, you are given a reusable water bottle to use (and keep!) during your stay, you’ll notice there are no straws or disposable utensils, and there is even a recycling plant on the property at Tswalu. Every building is built in a way to decrease energy usage as much as possible. On top of everything, it is quite evident as you interact with the community at Tswalu how banded together they are in this conservation midset. The proof of their efforts is in the reserve, where both the ecosystem and the community is flourishing.
What to pack
The first thing anyone will tell you about the Kalahari is that the weather is very unpredictable! You never know what you’re going to get, no matter the season, so come prepared for anything! My trip was in early March (which is the end of Summer) and while we expected to experience very hot days, we were treated with mild temperatures and very cool nights! I had packed mostly summer clothes, and ended up buying a fleece pullover from the gift shop (which I loved having the excuse to buy, hehe!) so I learned my lesson. You need everything from a swimsuit, to leggings & t-shirts, to sundresses and jean shorts. Sandals are boots are both great to have as well - especially if you plan on horseback riding, make sure you have close-toed shoes (preferably with ankle support) and long pants to ride in. Tswalu does provide you with sunscreen and bug spray in your suite, but it’s not a bad idea to also pack some of your own. The mosquitos can be quite pesky! I also highly recommend a hat or two to shield your face from the desert sun! Below are a few examples of outfits I wore both on safari and around the lodge —
Top - Princess Polly / Shorts - Agolde / Boots - Dr. Martens
Jumpsuit - Princess Polly / Boots - Dr. Martens
Swimsuit - Frankie’s Bikinis
Romper & Belt - Princess Polly / Boots - Dr. Martens
Top - Princess Polly / Leggings - LuluLemon / Hat - Tswalu gift shop
Top - Tribe Kelley / Shorts - Agolde / Belt - Princess Polly
HOW TO GET THERE
There are several options for getting to Tswalu, but by far the best option is by plane. The Kalahari Reserve is very remote, but thankfully Tswalu has it’s own private airstrip to accommodate small planes bringing in guests. The Tswalu team can take care of your flight arrangements if you fly from either Cape Town or Johannesburg! Since Ry and I were already in Cape Town, we chose the quick two hour flight from there to Tswalu. We spent the entire ride looking out the window and marveling at how magnificent the South Africa landscapes are… and how much they change as you travel from the city to the desert!
When you touch down at Tswalu, you are inside the reserve as soon as you step off the plane! Your assigned guide for the week meets you immediately to introduce themselves, take your baggage, and show you to the cutest welcome area set up with snacks and beverages (including a great cup of coffee!) Get ready to experience nature right away, as the ceiling of this area is full of birds! They fly in and out of intricate nests they’ve weaved for themselves and the beautiful sounds they make provide the perfect tone to begin what will be the most magical trip of your life!
To inquire and/or book your stay at Tswalu Kalahari Lodge, visit their website HERE!
All photos by the insanely talented rachel l’antigua
Brandi Cyrus is a DJ and fashion influencer with a passion for travel and a love for animals.